Owen Courreges: The great (un-)American wings debate

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Owen Courrèges

It’s downright un-American.  When it comes to being unpatriotic, it’s on par with burning the American flag, kicking the President’s dog and muttering disparaging remarks about Abraham Lincoln’s mother.

I’m speaking, of course, of eating chicken wings without a brewski.  Drinkin’ and eatin’ wings is a quintessential part of the American experience.

Alas, we live in a city where the propriety of wings and alcohol is a subject of social and political debate.  Currently, three neighborhood associations are debating whether to support an alcohol license for “Finger Lick’n Wings,” a restaurant located on Jackson Avenue south of Magazine Street.  The Coliseum Square, River Garden and the Irish Channel Neighborhood Associations are all poised to voice their viewpoints on this issue.

This past Monday, the Coliseum Square Association held debate on this very issue at its regular meeting.  For once, I was actually present.  The owner of Finger Lick’n Wings, Marlon Horton (a.k.a. “10th Ward Buck,” New Orleans Bounce artist extraordinaire), was present to plead for the association’s support in his bid for an alcohol license.

As Mr. Horton explained, business is suffering, particularly during Saints games, because nobody wants to eat at a wings restaurant where they can’t partake of alcoholic beverage (it’s like peanut butter and jelly, people).  He noted the local wings chain, WOW Café & Wingery, is popular in part because it boasts a full bar.

Actually, that was an understatement.  WOW Wingery practically screams “we’ll get you smashed in a hurry and oh, by the way, do you want a to-go cup?”  They boast all the subtlety of Tropical Isle sans the distinctive atmosphere of Bourbon Street.

Anyway, as Mr. Horton continued his spiel, he not only promised that he would not serve frozen daiquiris or use disposable cups, he promised to personally monitor his patrons to ensure that no alcohol would leave the premises.  Mr. Horton specifically noted that he would not be like the daiquiri place on St. Charles (and yes, it was a bit disturbing that a wing joint owner would feel that he had to assure a neighborhood association that his establishment would not become like a nearby daiquiri bar).

Next, the floor was open for comments and questions.  I spoke up early on and observed that Jackson Avenue south of Magazine Street is very blighted and economically depressed, and that there was no good reason to oppose a liquor license that would serve to sustain one of the few active businesses in that corridor.

As the Q & A progressed, attention turned to comparing Finger Lick’n to nearby corner groceries, where on-site alcohol consumption had been a problem.  Apparently, at these groceries there had been some fights (perish the thought!) and complaints about people loitering (because a group of middle aged guys standing around and drinking beer is hilarious in “King of the Hill,” but represents a grave threat to public safety in New Orleans).

In any event, it was never exactly explained how corner groceries selling alcohol for off-premises consumption had anything to do with a wing joint wanting to sell alcohol for on-premises consumption. There was a wink-and-a-nod assumption that businesses serving alcohol in poorer neighborhoods are basically interchangeable.

One participant at the meeting argued that it was inappropriate to allow another liquor license near the River Garden housing development (the erstwhile St. Thomas projects) because the people there have substance abuse problems.  Evidently the Temperance movement is still alive and well, and still voicing its condescending, patronizing regard to the poor.

Hence, an undertone to the Q & A was that people from the wealthier areas north of Magazine Street were concerned that poor blacks couldn’t handle alcohol with their wings, and they’d hang around drinking (loitering!), fighting and generally showing a reckless disregard for upper-class property values.  Thus, WOW Wingery in Uptown is a pillar of the community, whereas Finger Lick’n Wings on Jackson will destroy the social fabric.

I left the meeting early, but at least one other resident spoke up in support of Mr. Horton.   Resident Karon Reese spoke up and asked rhetorically: “We’re saying poor people can’t have a liquor license?”

From what I heard, that’s exactly what some of those present were saying.  The condescension to the poor, if not outright contempt, was palpable.

In the end, the Coliseum Square Association essentially tabled the issue, and thankfully the actual board appeared to be more supportive.  It was suggested that the dispute may be resolved with a “good neighbor” agreement, whereby Mr. Horton will make a litany of promises in exchange for CSA’s blessing.  That would actually be a decent result at this point, but then the River Garden and Irish Channel may need to be mollified as well.

I left the meeting with a bad taste in my mouth, not so much about the outcome, but about the process.  A young entrepreneur from a poor background was being run through a political gauntlet of self-selected neighborhood association members with chips on their shoulders, none of whom appeared to live anywhere near Finger Lick’n Wings.

That, dear readers, is something more un-American than chicken wings without beer.

Owen Courrèges, a New Orleans attorney and resident of the Garden District, offers his opinions for UptownMessenger.com on Mondays. He has previously written for the Reason Public Policy Foundation.

36 thoughts on “Owen Courreges: The great (un-)American wings debate

  1. “I spoke up early on and observed that Jackson Avenue south of Magazine Street is very blighted and economically depressed, and that there was no good reason to oppose a liquor license that would serve to sustain one of the few active businesses in that corridor.”

    Dear sir,
    An alcohol license is not allowed by right in many neighborhoods throughout the city. In economically depressed neighborhoods, such as Central City, a moratorium on alcohol beverage permits has been on the books for some time. This was done at the urging of neighborhood associations, ministers, NOPD and alike. Your dismissal of the lower Jackson Avenue corridor because of its depressed state smacks of the same contempt that you accuse the residents of the area of holding and it does not take into consideration the investment of time and money that neighbors have put into the neighborhood.

  2. Constance,

    An alcohol license is not allowed by right in many neighborhoods throughout the city. In economically depressed neighborhoods, such as Central City, a moratorium on alcohol beverage permits has been on the books for some time.

    And I oppose that, particularly in this case. In any event, we’re not talking about a permit for an alcoholic beverage outlet, but a restaurant permit. I don’t think the moratorium extends to restaurants.

  3. To the contrary, Owen. We ARE talking about an alcoholic beverage outlet. There is indeed a difference between a permit for a bar and a permit for a restaurant, but the moratorium on ABOs extends to both.

    As i stated previously, the owner is not allowed to have an ABO by right. Any owner in this zoning district must go through the conditional use process. This gives the neighbors the opportunity to speak for or against the proposal. I think, Owen, that you are walking a fine line when it comes to zoning and enforcement. What seems to apply to your neighborhood does not seem to be equally applicable to “economically depressed” neighborhoods. Rather, we should just take what we can get? I say no.

    Might I suggest that you visit the establishment? Health and code violations abound. The owner is a good guy. But this business has not contributed to the neighborhood or to economic development efforts.

    • Constance,

      To the contrary, Owen. We ARE talking about an alcoholic beverage outlet. There is indeed a difference between a permit for a bar and a permit for a restaurant, but the moratorium on ABOs extends to both.

      Your right about terminology — I checked and the phrase does apply to a restaurant selling alcohol for on-premises consumption. I should have said that we’re not dealing with a bar or a liquor retailer, which raise greater concerns over neighborhood impacts.

      I haven’t seen the text of the moratorium, so I can’t comment on its substance. From what you say I do think it’s a mistake, though, and ultimately is patronizing to residents of poorer neighborhoods.

      What seems to apply to your neighborhood does not seem to be equally applicable to “economically depressed” neighborhoods. Rather, we should just take what we can get? I say no.

      The choice is between something and nothing. Saks Fifth Avenue isn’t going to move onto that section of Jackson. You’re not going to get a high class business there, but anything is a start.

      Might I suggest that you visit the establishment? Health and code violations abound. The owner is a good guy. But this business has not contributed to the neighborhood or to economic development efforts.

      The business has definitely contributed more than the nearby blighted structures, and it represents the only major commerce in that area outside of a few corner stores and Wal-Mart, all of which can sell liquor. Any negative impact here is likely to be much less because we’re only talking about on-premises consumption.

      I’m not going to comment on health inspections. Their most recent inspection was in August, and although it wasn’t great it didn’t look terrible (you could find the same violations at any greasy spoon). In any case, it’s irrelevant to this issue.

  4. This place is, what, two blocks away from a bunch of Magazine Street restaurants and bars? I guess that just means the residents are terrified of letting places with alcohol permits anywhere near their homes. Maybe that’s why Freret Street is such a dump between Jefferson and Napoleon – as soon as you let the restaurants serve alcohol, the neighborhood never recovers and the property values plummet.

    And I’d put way more stock in what the local health inspectors said about anything if I didn’t know one thing about how health inspectors work in this city. They have about as much credibility as George W. Bush talking about WMD’s.

    I absolutely understand the need for neighborhood associations to have their voices heard, I do. And I understand that people don’t have a right to open up any kind of business that they want anywhere they want. People have to follow the rules.

    But opposing an already existing chicken wing takeout restaurant from selling beer? Two blocks from Magazine Street? Really?

    • Naborhood associations are good. Their intention is to help the area. Is that what you are trying to do? I said, I hope you do not hold back any economic venture just because of the interpertation of the rules. Magazine street has more sidewalk tables that are not condusive to pedestrains monement than Jackson Ave. has. Should your interest be in rectifying such situations? Whar is a good purpose?

      • Naborhood associations are good [sic]

        I love blanket statements like that. Just like “unions are thugs” and “charter schools are good.” Not all neighborhood associations are created or active in equal and progress-prone ways. They can be just as bad as they are good, depending on a lot of factors.

        Though I can understand your confusion by my last post. I meant the thing about Freret Street sarcastically, as I believe that common sense regulations help businesses while endless red tape hinders an economy. Freret would not be the emerging example of urban renewal it is today if the neighborhood had been unwelcome to businesses, restaurants, and establishments serving alcohol. The same goes for Magazine Street.

        The whole thing about this is making sure opponents of Chicken Wings and Beer have legitimate concerns over the business. Much of what Mr. Courreges describes do not fit my definitions of legitimate.

  5. Owen,

    I do think that the health code violations are relative when other violations are taken into consideration. The owner has hosted block parties without the proper permitting. Noise ordinances were violated during the parties. Jackson Ave. was blocked from all traffic. The noise on Sunday night was off the charts and the constant pounding music made the walls of my house shake so hard that pictures fell off my wall. NOPD received dozens of complaints, 3/4 of which came from River Garden.

    I’m with Cousin Pat — the health code reports aren’t worth the paper they are written on. There is exposed insulation hanging over the stove in the kitchen. The bathrooms smell like awful and are in poor condition. Etc.

    “The choice is between something and nothing. Saks Fifth Avenue isn’t going to move onto that section of Jackson. You’re not going to get a high class business there, but anything is a start.”

    That is absurd, Owen. It is KEY for Jackson Ave. to get off on the right foot, so to speak. No one has implied that high-end retail is appropriate for Jackson Ave. To the contrary, I hope for services on Jackson Ave. that will serve the neighborhood since so many of those services have been gentrified out of business on Magazine St. because of escalating rentals.

    We welcomed the business when they first opened 2 years ago and we supported the zoning change that was needed for the business to open. We hoped that Finger Lickin Wings would serve the neighborhood, but the early parties held at the business actually scared off the neighbors.

    This isn’t a question of something or nothing, Owen. The business is there. If the business fails, it is because of a failure to serve and be sympathetic to the neighborhood, not because the business doesn’t serve beer with wings.

    • Constance,

      The owner has hosted block parties without the proper permitting. Noise ordinances were violated during the parties. Jackson Ave. was blocked from all traffic.

      If true, this is a problem and he should be cited by the NOPD for these violations. Allowing the liquor license with a “good neighbor” agreement could remedy these problems and allow the business to thrive. Sounds like a win-win to me.

      I’m with Cousin Pat — the health code reports aren’t worth the paper they are written on. There is exposed insulation hanging over the stove in the kitchen. The bathrooms smell like awful and are in poor condition. Etc.

      I think you’re taking the opposite position as Cousin Pat. The truth is, alot of low-end restaurants in this city have are in poor repair. Whether they get cited or not is very political.

      That is absurd, Owen. It is KEY for Jackson Ave. to get off on the right foot, so to speak. No one has implied that high-end retail is appropriate for Jackson Ave. To the contrary, I hope for services on Jackson Ave. that will serve the neighborhood since so many of those services have been gentrified out of business on Magazine St. because of escalating rentals.

      Where are these businesses? They aren’t there. Finger Lick’n Wings is there. It’s taking a chance in a corridor with virtually no commerce, one with as many empty and blighted lots as occupied ones.

      Look, to the extent that Finger Lick’n is creating a public nuisance, that obviously needs to be remedied and that can be done within this process. However, those weren’t the essential complaints voiced at the CSA. Also, it’s a entirely different matter from enforcing a patronizing moratorium on alcohol licenses across the board in certain neighborhoods, as you have advocated.

    • What I was saying is that I wouldn’t hold “health inspector concerns” as a legitimate reason to oppose (or support) a restaurant in this town, because I just don’t find their reports credible. I’ve seen them shut down completely clean operations and allow nasty operations to stay open, their stuff has nothing to do with health.

      If you’ve been to the place and can tell me about something nasty, I’ll believe you long before I put any stock in what the health department has to say.

      Now, if this place is hosting noise ordinance violating block parties and blocking off the streets, then that is what I consider a legitimate problem and neighbors have plenty of grounds to complain.

      • Owen I did receive a citation because the police was there paid for the detail. I was fully insured is what they dont know. Understanding that these people are talking out of anger i rest my case until next month. Thanks for the article sorry that these people dislike you but its your opinion. Sad but reality.

  6. Shame on us. We took the owner at his word when he said he wouldn’t ask for an ABO. We didn’t write up a Good Neighbor Agreement. We trusted the owner. Shame on us.

  7. I should add that good neighbor agreements only have teeth if you can sue. If you don’t have money to sue, a good neighbor agreement means nothing.Us po folks on lower Jackson don’t have money to sue if a good neighbor agreement is violated.

    • There aren’t many city ordinances that have teeth unless the city has a vested interest in them or the citizens can sue over them, and that’s true in many cities.

      I don’t know what a “Good Neighbor Agreement” is, but it sounds like a scam to me. Come to think about it, there are several red tape situations in New Orleans that pretty much guarantee business investment and neighborhoods will be at odds over almost anything.

      On the public access TV, I heard some city zoning committee functionary say that once a place is zoned to sell alcohol, the place will always be zoned to sell alcohol, even if the business with the license moves away or closes down. I don’t think I could come up with a city ordinance more divisive between neighbors and businesses, and more prone to abuse, than one like that. That also contributes to how difficult it is to shut down some businesses that have continual violations, because once a business can sell alcohol based on location, you’d prefer to deal with the known qualities than risk a different business coming in.

        • Thing is, Joe, I actually saw and heard someone on the subcommittee say that to members of a neighborhood association, as they considered supporting a business serving alcohol.

          If there is a mistake there, you need to take it up with the folks who make zoning decisions, because it sure seems to me that they are confused. After all, I am not the one making zoning decisions for this city.

  8. Owen, I think you are picking the wrong business to back on this one.

    I’m sure the owner of the daiquiri place on St. Charles also promised he would keep an eye on his patrons.

  9. All i will say is give the guy a chance. A party sounds foolish to be the reason to say no. This is New Orleans right? Pray for our city

  10. Hi everyone!
    Let me address this. First of all there are no violations. Second I did give a party but what effect will that have on the outcome of selling drinks. My name is Marlon Horton my number is (504) 858-8982 any problems let me know. Its always the people that dont even give you business that wants to give input. Yes i am a good guy. All I ask is for a permit to further my business but the “hate” in you people want even allow your brain to function and hear me out. Not one reason you all are giving has to do with my request its more less of you trying to give my business a bad name but that comes with the job. People talk about the president but hell hes still in office. Come on people stop creating problems lets get a solution. I understand about the music and I am really sorry your pictures fell of the wall but that wasnt my intention. Its was a grandopening inwhich I also wanted to celebrate the release of my boOK. IF ITS GOING TO BE A ARGUMENT THEN BE FAIR THERE IS GOOD AND BAD BUT ALL YALL KNOW IS BAD. REGARDLESS OF WHAT YOU SAY PEOPLE WILL STILL FISH FOR THEMSELVES MEANING THEY WILL STILL GIVE ME BUSINESS UNLESS THEY SEE UNLIKELY NESS.

    thank you

    Leave a Reply

  11. Dont agree with the parties but I pass this place daily and it is very well kept. Very beautiful site. On the other hand this is a reason I dont join association, very demanding. We as a city/ neighborhood shouldnt disgrace one another.

  12. Thanks to this article business was good on yesterday.

    Finger Lickn Wings @ 739 Jackson Avenue.

    30 different flavored WINGS, fries and onion rings.

    Come check us out…

  13. Another sad example of someone trying to follow the rules and getting no traction with the city. It is so unfortunate that the city and council have capitulated to the special interest groups like CSA, but it’s the reality. Unless of course, it’s a multi-million dollar development like Second Line Stages, just a few blocks away from this restaurant. Then you get a bye from everyone. If you don’t believe me, go look at the lovely parking lot at the corner of Annunciation and Richard, installed and owned by Second Line. Is it really possible that CSA, Stacy Head, the HDLC, and Safety & Permits don’t know about this? There is also an illegal hostel operating at Annunciation and Felicity, right next door to River Garden. What is the priority here? Do the rules apply to everyone?

    The city is short-sighted and fails to understand that this type of hypocritical policy enforcement only serves to increase a sense of irrelevance with regards to the mayor’s stated goal of improving the permitting process, amongst other things.

  14. Injustice at its best. When there are surrounding neighbors not willing to give someone a chance to improve their business. Maybe they are already brain washed by the system. I was one that led the charge against not allowing Stacey Head back in seat but this is what happens. Everyone is with us until in office, afterwards the power at their hands are used to control us. Vote people!

  15. There is another place right up the street that see hot food for stamps and synthetic weed…. and no one has sited these foreigners yet the city and neighbors fight this black man night and day

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